Week 601 – Dubrovnik

Sharon and I had spent some time in Dubrovnik back in 2016 and Tina had been there before, so we booked a half-day winery and Cavtat visit with a plan to get back so we could visit the old town and Terry could do the outer wall walk.

Morning Walk — Dubrovnik Old Town

Before the Crowds

The guide was very good and shifted the tour around on us a bit — she took us straight to the old town before the crowds hit and gave us a quick overview. She was in her mid-30s and lived in the old town (above the stores) but grew up just outside of it, and described the attack from the Serbian-controlled Yugoslavian army on the old town when she was a child and how her mother had to run back from the old town to the school to collect her and her siblings. She showed us the bullet holes and mortar damage that was still visible, as well as the memorial to the people who died defending — still very real to her.

"She showed us the bullet holes and mortar damage that was still visible, as well as the memorial to the people who died defending — still very real to her."

The Homeland War

Dubrovnik was besieged from October 1991 to May 1992 during the Croatian War of Independence. The old town — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — was shelled repeatedly despite having no military significance. Around 70% of buildings in the old town sustained damage. The Rector's Palace, which we visited later, now holds a permanent photographic exhibition from the period.

Dubrovnik old town — early morning before the cruise ship crowds arrived

Terry, Sharon, and our guide — she lived above the shops in the old town, grew up just outside during the siege, and gave us an account of the 1991–92 attack that no guidebook replicates.

Morning walk through Dubrovnik old town

Winery Brajkovic

On a lighter note, we then went to a local winery. As far as winery visits go, it was very short with only 2 wines to taste — but it was nice to get away from the tourist areas and take a drive along the Croatian Riviera.

Winery Brajkovic — two wines, good drive along the Croatian Riviera

Croatian Riviera overlooking Dubrovnik

Cavtat

We then stopped in Cavtat — a nice marina town. We had stopped there in 2016 but didn't make it to the main bay, which was much nicer than the area we had gone to on our first trip. We also had a much sunnier day this time.

Cavtat — the main bay, much nicer than our first visit in 2016, much sunnier day

Wall Walk & Rector's Palace

Wall Walk in Dubrovnik

Back in Dubrovnik, we had more time than planned and did the old town wall walk and visited some of the museums that our guide had recommended. Because we had been here before, it was enough time for us.